So after all this time it was finally here - I was in a position to start the car. I had not done what most people seemed to do and started it as a rolling chassis I just left it right until the end.
As my dash was still at AK (3 months and counting) to be trimmed I made a quick ply one to hold the gauges and mount my wiring that was already made - so I had to make the dash layout the same-ish so it would fit!
I then made all the water connections to the heater and the brake booster - I used the small out let next to the big 10mm port - I then blocked off the big port - seems to work fine(comment from the future here!) , the big port was just too big to connect to.
...and here it is in all its Glory.....so time to crank...
Connected up the laptop, after buying a USB to serial adaptor who has a serial port now a days!
Up it all came and ..........
NOTHIGN....cranke yes.....start no.....checked everything...
Pump was priming and working, had a spark but couldn't read anything on the injector +12V -hmmm...couldnt think what it could be .....spark seemed weak, no power to injectors but pum and ECH all ran fine?....
at about 3:30am I have a eureka moment - the pump works and so does the ECU, these are both grounded to the chassis - all the engine sensors are grounded to the engine....and don't work properly.
I haven't grounded the engine the chassis! DOH! I did know I had to do this but as AK had put the engine wiring in while the body was off I hadn't really thought about it. So made up a lead using battery cable and hey presto the engine coughed a little - we are getting fuel!
~No still nothing properly....
I spoke to Jon as I couldn't get any reading on the throttle , he suggested switching is around 180deg as it only wrks for a 90deg angle and could be back to front....
NOPE.....
So now our guess was the TPS sensor itself - so new one on its way from Ak...
Bugger.....
Here it is new sensor - 5 mins to fit AND!!!!
NOTHING!!! AGAIN!!!
FFS!!!!
What os going on still nothing from it. So as its easter and AK is closed I had nowhere to go - so checked out the harness, downloaded the Omex manual and managed to find the drawing for the TPS sensor on the internet....
From my workings it was wired incorrectly! the signal and power back to front....so after trying to de-pin the connector which proved impossible as it has round terminals so you need a special tool i cut the harness and spliced it back again with the two wires switched..
AND....
IT BLOODY WORKED - I now have TPS signal! thanks god...
I did have a coolant temp issue also but after speaking to John previously this was sorted as I had removed the CTS from the engine to put the one in for the dials but you need both - so i replaced this and added my dial one at the opposite corner as there is a capped port - not easy with the engine in but i managed after making a speaking snanner/allen key tool!
So now to try to start..
Tried cracking and it coughed into life - briefly and then conked out...retarded the IGN slightly and ROAR it starts and blipped the throttle and away it ran....not sure why i have to retard the timing so much but will speak to Ak about that!
BUT it started - and kept running -after checking around the engine all looked good so how about driving - power steering works and the brakes etc had all been bled so good to go...
So managed to pull it out of the garage (thank got it had PS!)
Seems VERY odd seeing it outside!
So after looking more at what I had to do to keep the engine running and retarding it so much something was not right - obviously it ran so it can't be anything not connected so all i can think of is the timing of the engine and thus the map in the ECU??? seems odd as AK must have downloaded this.
So called Jon and he said he had never hear of an OMEX harness being wrong and never had the engine not run first time....but said he would send me his map and I could try that, as he couldn't lay his hands on it straight away I had to wait and the family wanted to go to the Sea life centre so even more waiting argh!!!
So back from the day out the map was waiting in my inbox....downloaded it to the ECU and.
It fecking ran! first time....idled nicely and that was that - its finally all working and running as it should be....
I reversed out of the garage and sat there satisfied running - put the hand brake on and promptly rolled backwards! with it FULL on - still rolled backwards....that will be the next job then to try for the 17th time! BUT IR RUNS AHAHAHAHAHAH!!!
Well until that was that i realised there was an open port on the throttle - this clearly isn't right and thus needs to be capped off (checked with Ak and this is the case).
So after capping it off - it doesn't run properly any longer....wtf!
So after speaking with another cobra builder (Hello Andy) and getting a contact in Omex i got the following instructions to set the throttle...
Basically involves changing a few settings on the Map4000 programme and then monitoring the lambda feedback whilst altering the mechanical throttle cable - now all good and it runs properly again!
- Ensure the engine is at normal operating temperature
- Go to tab 3: Sensor Setup. Set TPS AutoZero Gain and TPS AutoZero Offset to 0
- Now set TPS min to 30 higher than TPS raw (at closed throttle)
- Go to Tab 8: Air Bypass
- Adjust the main idle screw on the linkage whilst looking at the scopes, you are aiming for the following –
a. Idle Speed Error to be at 0rpm
b. Spark Feedback to be at 0˚
c. Valve Feedback to be hovering at 0%
d. Both Fuel Feedbacks to be hovering at -5%
- Once you have set the throttle go back to tab 3: Sensor Setup and set TPS min to the current TPS raw value, if the parameter Throttle reads anything other than 0.00% (for example 0.13%) add one to TPS min.
- Cycle the power off and on to the ECU and recheck the scopes are showing as expected and Throttle always returns back to 0.00%.
Then....
Another issue - bloody hell - will this car ever run???
The car keeps failing to crank - basically it will crank and then seemingly get stuck in a position and you just get a mechanical clunk.
i spoke to AK and to Roadcraft and they both said i will need to add a few shims to alter the starter a little further away from the flywheel so it doesn't engage so tightly. After receiving the shims and trying 1 right up to 4 it made no difference and after looking at the starter engaging it clearly is not meshing too tightly so must be something else.
Removed the starter and tested it on it own - no issue so part seems ok.
I fed a battery feed onto the starter solenoid and it cranks every time, so its the wiring??? This is from AK so seems odd to have some sort of high resistance/bad ground etc... After mulling this over i realised that the immo was in this circuit and thus tried it without the immo - hey presto the car starts every time!!!! So need to find a new home for the immo circuit. Ahh well no worries there but at least it starts every time now!!!
At last! seems like this has taken a lot to get the blinking thing running.!!!!