So here we are - the day has arrived! After parting with an unspeakable amount of money the big V8 lump has arrived!
I managed to get the bad buy into the garage with a rather large push and just needs to be unwrapped.
And here she is in all her glory - now - where do all the pipes go and how do it all connect up - hmm work for another day I think!
Found a few images to help - I did think a crate engine would come with some instructions, but no! as per usual nothing! They must think everyone is an all knowing expert is all areas! roll on wiring I'm more at home there!!!
So first was to get the bloody thing off the pallet - as the delivery guy brought it on a pallet it was on effectively two......this didn't seem an issue - but it WAS!!!! The pallet was wider than the legs of the brane so it couldn't get around it....eventually I managed (with the help of good old Dad) to pull the engine off the bottom pallet an onto the legs of the crane.....bit dodgy but it worked!
Then getting it off the crate pallet was pretty straight forward....and onto the floor it went - now for the transmission.
So I managed to line up the trans and engine on the floor (with some wood under the box to get the right height - as its a heavy bugger to move.....removed the rubber bung from the end of the box and fitted the yoke so i could turn the box to engage it....With a few jiggles it was in.
Then it was on to lifting the beast to get it in.....the first issue (in a series of issues - more to come!!!) was that the crane hits the anti roll bar....the same anti roll bar I just fitted....bollox! so off it came again.
So with the bar out of the way - off we go again.....(2nd time now - keep watching!)....I didn't have one of those bars that you wind to alter the angle (BUY ONE!!!) but managed to make do with large ratchet straps that we left longer at the front so that it was at an angle when going in - worked pretty well to be honest....well was ok for me - Dad was the one at the other end fighting with it to get it in.....well why strain yourself when others will do if for you!
So It was finally in!
Dad suggested to check the manifolds fitted as it looked pretty tight - so we did exactly that.....
IT DIDNT FIT! BU-GG-ER!!!!
So the A Bank side fit but with only a few mm spare. The B Bank side however - no chance!
<-- B Bank
The Holes would not line up as it was too close tot he chassis - what the hell?????!?!?!?!
--> A Bank Just!
Clash on B Bank and its not even in place yet.
So after a call to Ak and Bob (as Jon is away) it would appear I am the first to do this as the GEN3 chassis is new and their demo one has hand made manifolds......So the only solution we came up with was to chop the top part of the manifold - this has threaded holes in to add heat shields which I won't have so should be ok -we will see.
So the Engine will have to 'pop' out again - ahh well it needed too anyway as i need to finish the fuel lines now I know where the pump can fit etc so I will do this whilst it is out!
Fuel Lines now all in - all down the same side due to space restrictions with brake lines but seems to work ok.
Engine now back in and all seems to fit ok!
Then to mount the transmission bracket - this is a bit awkward as its so close to the floor but my 90deg Drill bit came into its own again!
Checking positions before drilling.
All in - i have bolted through from the top of the chassis - hopefully it won't foul the body as its so close to the chassis tubular section - but if it does I will just cut around then and glass over the top.
Arial Shot...
All done and off the axle stands! I can order the prop now.......Good to have this bit done....fells as though its taken another step closer to completion - which I guess it has!!!
So all thats left is to 'pop' the manifolds on....wont take two mins!
OH BOLLOKS!....they don't fit!
The back of the manifold clashes with the chassis - oh twat! what the hell ! So after I fair bit of head scratching I called AK - apparently I am the first to use this kit with the standard manifold rather than a bespoke one...I didn't realise that you could get a bespoke on to be honest (must have missed that bit in the manual....?!), so anyway the part hitting were some lugs that hold a heat shield that i don't have and won't fit - so off they come!
The blood thing will not line up without alteration ---->T
The right side of the engine does fit but is resting on the chassis rail when installed. Whilst there is not much movement from the engine (apparently) this will not do as there is no clearance at all...
.
The lugs were trimmed off and now there is enough room - well about 15mm wish...which so Jon tells me will be enough....so lets hope it is...
Sorry for the pics all over the place but this application is driving me mad with is bizarre formatting - its just des what the fuck it wants....stupid bloody thing....
So the Oil dip stick is too far outside of the chassis - so i bent it into the bozzare shape bellow and altered the bracket to suit and it fits around the block/manifolds/chassis etc - took bloody ages and was a right bugger - much cursing and foul language flew form the garage during this part.....then it was all bolted up - put the dip stick in.....put the......dip.....stick.......IN!!!
YOU BASTARD - it won't go in - I forgot that the dip stick is a flat blade type s will only bend in one direction....as you can see my 'masterpiece' bends in every direction going.
Another hour spent straightening it out again with the pipe bender......Then I just pushed it back in the hole and left it sticking out of the car - patience has gone and trying again now will result in something getting thrown out of the garage - so full strop mode active - another day will have to see this job completed.
So I also need to get a prop made....considered a few bog rolls and some sticky tape - but probably not a good idea so spoke to Bailey Morris - the form is what they give you below...
I filled in a few parts that I knew - apparently you don't specify the shaft diameter so not sure what else to fill in. I have heard that some people have sent their SlipYoke to them to allow it all to be balanced - they didn't ask me for this so we will see!
Also now have the clutch piped up to ensure it works (see page on clutch! it all went pretty smoothly NOT!).
So - the Xmas period in the garage has not been kind to the manifolds - as they are only a cast part they have rusted really badly - although this won't make any difference to function it look scrap so need to change!
So what to do with them - I looked at getting them ceramic coated but a place in the midlands (forget the name) but the quote came back at circa £700! FORGET THAT! i could have custom part made from stainless for around that price. After hunting around a bit i found some manifold paint - the issue with the was that it needed to be cured at 350deg C for 2 hours - err.....My oven reaches 200 and the engine doesn't run so game over. Then I found that POR 15 paint cures at less then 200 - hooray!
So an order was made -1x can.
I did many light coats with 15 mins drying in-between each one....
All sprayed up and into the oven 200Deg C for 2 hours. Smelled a bit but was ok.
Out they come - looks pretty good...
And here they are on the engine...all done......much better! Lets see how long its lasts.
The pictures are in the wrong order but - the pipework needed doing next. i ordered the pipe kit from AK - this way at least I knew everything was there......(I would learn later that this isn't the case!).
So - for me this was a 'challenge' as I didn't know where they all went - maybe other know all this but not me! and AK give you nothing so on the phone to Jon as is frequently the case. As usual Jon is very helpful....So connected them us as driected.
The breather pipes from the top of the air intake into the Front Left and Rear Right of the engine are not supplied so I ordered some breather pipe from Merlin - not too expensive and does the job.
Its worth nothing that they supply a very small (maybe 6-8mm) pipe that I was wondering what it is for - basically this is to make up the very small pipes form the front of the engine, (RHS) into the coolant header tank, into a larger ID by adding it as an internal sleeve then putting the 'proper' tube on over the top. I also did this on the rad connections as this was also too small. A spray of WD40 made life a whole lot easier.
The heater connections from the water pump use 2x90 deg pipes joined (Ak don't supply the joiner pipes - again ordered from Merlin) these then join to the long 16mm ID (I think) pipes - these then join again (4 joiners needed) to another piece that I assume you cut in two (haven't don't this yet) to connect to the heater when the body is on.
So I have also fitted the Stat - I did this into the stainless bar on the coolant tank - I assume this is the best place to put it! I mounted the stat to the rad bracket along side - doesn't look pretty but you won't see it much, and after all my car is for driving not for looking at - so its fine.
Rad also fitted - but it doesn't fit in-between the rad brackets - handy! So I overlapped the top and put some rubber between the fan and the rad to make up the gap....The only issue with this - that I realised afterwards was that the air filter now hits the top - so it may all have to come off and and be lowered - this is a pain as I have used the 1 time fitment plastic zip-tie things - bastard! Well we will see - I may find a way - if not Ill order a new set - grit my teeth and do it again - like so many things!!!!
So after mulling it over and another install with the zip tie things I wasn't happy so another method was required.
The solution was to use the longest fan brackets at the bottom into the end of the chassis and then make brackets/hangers to hold the top to the rad bracket...
Much better now - but it should be after three times!